OIL and filter FAQ - Courtesy Patman


Available LS1 oil filters, listed with the best one (IMO) at the top:

K&N HP1007-stock size, HP2006-longer size (available at Canadian Tire)
Amsoil SDF32-stock size, SDF64-longer size (available from independant Amsoil dealers)
Carquest Premium 85042-stock, 85522-long (from Carquest)
NAPA Gold 1042-stock, 1522-long (identical to Carquest, found at NAPA, more $$ than Carquest)
AC Delco PF44-stock, PF58-long (no antidrainback), PF59-long (with antidrainback)
Fleetguard (not yet available for the LS1 with the better Stratapore media)

Available LT1 oil filters (which should also fit 3rd gen cars too I believe)

K&N HP2002-stock, HP3002-long
Fleetguard LF3488-stock size, long size not available with Stratapore media yet
Amsoil SDF25-stock, SDF24-long
Carquest 85069-stock, 85060-long
NAPA 1069-stock, 1060-long


I did not bother to list Fram because simply put, they suck. Their workmanship is absolutely terrible, they are riding on a reputation of long ago when they actually did make quality stuff. Keep in mind that the Canadian Tire filters (including the Formula 1) are Frams, same with the Quaker State and Pennzoil filters. I also didn't list Purolator because the PureONE is far too restrictive, and their Premium Plus line has now started being produced with cardboard endcaps for many of their applications, just like Fram uses on all of their filters (except the pricey X2)

On the subject of good oils and good intervals, here goes:

Good conventional oils to run:

Pennzoil
Havoline
Castrol GTX

I would run these no longer than 5000km, especially when using 5w30, since a 5w30 conventional thins out very quickly. It's preferable to run 10w30 or even 10w40 when running these types of oils in an LT1, LS1 or any SBC for that matter. Keep in mind, conventionals will not flow as well in the cold, and they degrade much faster than synthetics, and don't hold their viscosity as well. They also do not keep your engine as clean, even if you change them frequently, eventually your engine will be dirtier when running conventional oils.


Good synthetic blends to run:

Schaeffer Supreme
Castrol Syntec Blend

You can safely run these oils to 8000km, possibly more in some cases (only with periodic oil analysis to double check)  Schaeffer Supreme is only available through mail order.

I know you probably find it strange I listed Syntec blend, but I've seen a few oil analysis results lately on this oil and believe it or not, they've looked better than the results I've seen with Syntec 5w30 or 10w30! Don't ask me how this is possible, although the fact that the blend is a slightly thicker viscosity (especially their 10w30) probably has a lot to do with it.

Good synthetics to run:

German Castrol Syntec 0w30 (sold at Walmart and some CT and Partsource stores)
Amsoil 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40
Redline 5w30, 10w30, 5w40, 10w40
Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40  (the 0w40 is available at NOCO)

Mobil1 is by far the most readily available and an excellent choice for your car, however, I prefer the top three choices over Mobil 1, since Mobil 1 tends to show higher iron, which is higher valvetrain wear. It's thinner viscosity is partly to blame, but even their 0w40 isn't too much better so it's partly due to their antiwear package. It'll still give your engine a long life, it's just not going to show as low engine wear as the others. German Castrol is by far the best bang for the buck, while Redline is the highest priced (but very good)

I prefer the 5w30 and 0w30 oils over 10w30 mainly due to their quicker flow on startup, which helps even in the summertime. Synthetics don't have the same problems with thinning out as dino oils do (although some lesser quality synthetics like Royal Purple have this thinning problem, so does Mobil 1 0w40 although it starts out thicker so at least it doesn't thin out into a 20wt oil like RP does)

Once again, this is all my two cents worth, but based on years of research, and most recently with viewing lots of oil analysis results.